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Veblen, Thorstein, 1857-1929

"Theory of the Leisure Class"

Even in its freest flights, fashion rarely
if ever gets away from a simulation of some ostensible use. The
ostensible usefulness of the fashionable details of dress,
however, is always so transparent a make-believe, and their
substantial futility presently forces itself so baldly upon our
attention as to become unbearable, and then we take refuge in a
new style. But the new style must conform to the requirement of
reputable wastefulness and futility. Its futility presently
becomes as odious as that of its predecessor; and the only remedy
which the law of waste allows us is to seek relief in some new
construction, equally futile and equally untenable. Hence the
essential ugliness and the unceasing change of fashionable
attire.
Having so explained the phenomenon of shifting fashions, the next
thing is to make the explanation tally with everyday facts. Among
these everyday facts is the well-known liking which all men have
for the styles that are in vogue at any given time. A new style
comes into vogue and remains in favor for a season, and, at least
so long as it is a novelty, people very generally find the new
style attractive. The prevailing fashion is felt to be beautiful.
This is due partly to the relief it affords in being different
from what went before it, partly to its being
reputable.


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